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Item # SRM000W

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  • Black, 38T x 110BCD ($72.99)
  • Black, 40T x 110BCD ($65.99)
  • Black, 42T x 110BCD ($59.97)
  • Black, 44T x 110BCD ($72.99)
  • Black, 46T x 110BCD ($72.99)
  • Black, 50T x 110BCD ($67.99)
  • Black, 52T x 130BCD ($72.99)
  • Black, 54T x 130BCD ($72.99)
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Item # SRM000W

Drop bars, not dropped chains.

SRAM’s Force 1 is its cyclocross-specific 1x11 group. As you might expect, SRAM took the best of its mountain groups and crossed them with the best of its road groups to create the ultimate tough, lightweight, element-proof drivetrain. At the heart of this system is the Force 1 X-Sync 11-speed chainring.

Borrowed from SRAM’s top-shelf 1x mountain group, XX1, X-Sync technology is what makes the single ring up front possible without any kind of front derailleur or chain keeper. The tall, square-edged teeth engage the chain sooner than standard teeth. They are taller, but sharper and narrower to move the chain efficiently and minimize deflection. SRAM also included mud-clearing recesses to keep the inner links and rollers clear of debris, so you’ll finish the race with the same number of gears that you started with.

  • X-Sync chainring technology
  • Mud-clearing recesses

Tech Specs

Number of Rings:
38 t, 40 t, 42 t, 44 t, 46 t
Bolt Circle Diameter:
110 mm, 130 mm
Compatible Components:
SRAM CX1 crankset
Actual Weight:
Black, 38T x 110BCD: 71g
Recommended Use:
cyclocross, gravel
Manufacturer Warranty:
2 years

Reviews & Community


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  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Sram's narrow wide chain ring design is the best out there. Their design try makes a difference and will keep your chain on when others will jump off. If you have a sram crank, then stick with a sram chainring.

Holy chain retention batman

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

In a nutshell, X-Sync lives up to all its hype. I'm running Force 1 on my cross bike, and have taken it out on trails that it really has no business being on. This chainring hasn't skipped a beat through all manner of rocks, roots, and generally jarring terrain. Not even a hint of an almost chain drop. Which is awesome.

Gear down

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

1x gravel gearing can be tricky. Living in mountainous areas requires going with a smaller ring up front, especially if you are adding packs to the bikes for longer trips. I went with a 38t X-Sync ring, along with an 11/42t PG-1130 cassette for plenty of climbing gears.
The X-sync ring bolts are pretty tough to loosen up, due to loads of locktight used during assembly. Not the easiest ring to install.

A must have.

    After several dropped chains on gravel roads and CX races, I made the leap to 1x. No more dropped chains for me! Sram's x sync tooth pattern with the matching chains are brilliant.

    Unanswered Question
    Avg. ride time: 2h 43m per week
    • Average ride time is based on Strava activity over the last 3 months. Give your reviews credibility by connecting your account.

    Is this ring compatible for 5-bolt 110bcd shimano cranks? (6700)

    Unanswered Question
    Avg. ride time: 4h 56m per week
    • Average ride time is based on Strava activity over the last 3 months. Give your reviews credibility by connecting your account.

    Backwards compatible with SRAM Red 10 speed crankset? I've heard through the grapevine that it is.

    Is there a guide to select a size? For example advantages of 38t vs 42t?

    The gear calculator will let you calculate things like gear ratio's, meter development, max speed @ rpm. This is what I use to justify my gearing, which is individual to how you ride and your area terrain.

    Let us know if you have any more questions!

    Lower gear ratio for the 38T=easier pedaling. Really depends on terrain and your riding ability as to what you would need. Check on SRAM's website they have good info on the 1x setup.

    38T is my choice for SSCX in Utah

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    I have a 38T and a 42T chainring for single speed racing in Utah. With the 38T my range of rear cogs goes from 16T-19T based on chain tension, the length of my drop out slot and the tolerance of my rear tire and frame. 80% of the time I race on 38T/16T, leaving my quick release at the end of my drop out. I use the 19T on two different hilly courses here in Utah and whenever its snowing. There was one race I was tempted to run 42T/17T because it was so flat and my chain would be too slack if I ran 38T/15T. This season I also switched out my rear 8.4 V-Brake for an Avid Shorty Ultimate because it's much quicker and easier to adjust each time I switch out my cogs. I still rock the V-Brake up front.