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The PowerTap G3 Wireless Hub is definitively PowerTap's top offering. Where the earlier generation stood out for its larger-than-normal diameter, this one has a powermeter disguised inside a traditional-looking 57mm flange diameter and subtle matte Black finish. It's also significantly lighter.
In other words, it looks and feels like a regular hub. For reference, Chris King hubs have a flange diameter of 53mm, so the G3 is just a teeny bit larger. And for reference, hubs of Ultegra-quality are around 350g, so the 325g G3 Hub is lighter than all but than the very top-tier rear hubs on the market. Admittedly, there was a sort-of dorky virtue in having a bulky carbon hub that shouted "powermeter," and the individualized aesthetic of PowerTap's older hubs functioned as advertising. However, PowerTap's power-measuring hubs were so obvious it often acted as an impediment for many potential users. The sleek and stealthy design of the G3 eliminates this distraction.
Knowing the value in weight reduction and stealth measuring, PowerTap looked at how to improve its powermeter without any compromise in performance. The G3 design still has a "torque tube" with eight strain gauges, yielding measurements accurate within +/- 1.5%. But PowerTap didn't stop there.
Rather than keep the electronics permanently affixed to the hub shell, PowerTap decided to build the electronics into the end cap. This is a big change, and a welcome one. By having a removable electronic element, it means that if there's a wheel-based problem with power readings, you're able to get a spare cap and install it, rather than sending your wheel back to PowerTap and waiting for the issue to be resolved. Another improvement that comes with this change is that a single CR2032 watch battery powers the transmitter. These batteries are easier to source and replace than the two 357 batteries found in the older hubs. The 2032 should last for approximately 300 hours of riding.
The G3 is equipped with an ANT+ transmitter. This means that the hub sends out a signal that's understood and translated into power, speed, torque, and virtual cadence numbers by any computer head unit that reads ANT+ signals.
The PowerTap G3 Wireless Hub is available in the color Black and is available with spoke drilling for 20, 24, 28, and 32 spokes. The spoke hole diameter is 2.5mm, so it is compatible with conventional round, double-butted, and most modern oval-bladed spokes. The flange diameter is 57mm on both sides. The hub center-to-flange measurement is 38mm for the non-drive side and 17.4mm for the drive side. It's available with a Campagnolo or Shimano/SRAM compatible freehub body. Should you purchase a wheel and need the other style, be aware that they can be swapped easily. After switching freehub bodies, the wheel will not need to be re-dished. The hub rolls on a 15mm-diameter aluminum alloy axle. Along with the hub, you'll get user instructions and the special tool for the end cap on the hub.
Please Note that the G3C Hub does not come with a skewer.
- 57mm flange diameter, 2.5mm spoke-hole diameter
- Shimano/SRAM or Campagnolo compatible freehub
- Works with ANT+ cycling computers
- +/- 1.5% power meter accuracy
- 11-speed compatible
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Reviews & Community
Is it possible to fit a sram xx1 cassette on the 32hole shimano version?
When do you anticipate the 20h being in stock? Thank you.
I got a pair of 2008 ZIPP 404 Tubular (24H, 10V), Do I have just buy the HUB? or will I need to get the spokes as well? Will this hub take my old 404 to 2016?
Is the Powertap G3 compatible with the Mavic 2011 Cosmic carbone SL wheel set?
I think that set has 20 spoke holes, so yes it should work. Some wheelsets have, for instance, 21 and I don't think Powertap can accommodate those.
Is the G3 hub compatible with an 11-speed...
Is the G3 hub compatible with an 11-speed cassette?
This hub is compatible with all 11 speed groups.
If you have any other questions or need anything else please get in touch with us and we'll get you set up.
What are the uses for a power tap?
What are the uses for a power tap?
I'm glad you asked. PowerTap hubs, and other power-measuring devices, have easily become the most popular tools to help riders become better, faster, and stronger, for both pro and non-pro riders. Most power-measuring devices, including these PowerTap hubs, allow for precise, real-time monitoring of a rider's power output, in the form of wattage. Knowing how much power you're putting out can be tremendously valuable knowledge, allowing you to track any number of variables, such as how long into a ride your power begins to fade, or whether or not your power increases at a certain cadence (pedaling frequency). Any and all information that the PowerTap provides can be downloaded to your computer, too, so you can study your performance on rides and even more accurately measure your output and the factors that affect it. You can even measure your power output at various points during your pedal stroke, so you can dial in your pedaling technique to maximize efficiency.
Indeed, there are a wide variety of ways in which your riding can benefit from a power-measuring device. Just let me know if you'd like to place an order or if you have any other questions or concerns: my e-mail address is email@example.com.
Without power, you're not training
Power is the only way to train effectively. Speed is too dependent on weather or traffic. Heart rate is too dependent on sleep, age, and health. Perceptions of exertion are often misleading. But watts don't lie. If you're able to crank out more watts, you're getting stronger. With power, you can train with incredible efficiency and see exactly where your weaknesses are and plan accordingly. In a race you'll know if you can go harder or have to back off. On a long climb, you can sit on your best number and pace yourself up while everyone else around you is going too hard and blowing up.
Powertap is one of the least expensive power options and works very well. Spinning the wheel wakes the PT up, allowing it to be read by any ANT+ head unit. It can also estimate cadence, so you won't need a cadence sensor. Do a manual calibration before you ride and you're all set. Maybe the hub weighs more than a regular hub, but you won't notice. With many power units it's a matter of something gained/something lost. A crank unit forces you to use the same bike. The PT forces you to use the same wheel, but you can move it between different bikes. If you use different wheels, you can buy two and build them into two wheels for the price of one Quarq.
Saris is great to work with--my end cap started transmitting intermittently and after a phone call they mailed me another one right away. It works perfectly now.
I had mine built into a Zipp 60 rear wheel. Since the hole placement called for j-bend spokes, I went with the DT aerolite bladed spokes rather than the standard Sapim CX-ray.
It just works
- Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
And it works perfectly. Laced a 28h to archetype rims with CX-Rays makes a rock solid 972.5g wheel (with Stan rim tape) for the 162 lb rider.
The power readings are stable, the calibration is easy and rapid with the Garmin and I just forget that the hub is not a standard hub on all rides.