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I get my drink all over my jersey/shirt, thanks to the crappy seal on the top around the nozzle. It lets it all out around the base and outside of the nozzle, rather than only from the center, in a stream, as I'd expect. When I first noticed, I ended wrapping my lips around the top as if it were a teat, to get a drink. Very uncool... after that, I just unscrewed the cap to drink.
Interesting design, but I still have to clean it about the same as any other bottle. It's a little faster, since I can use my hand from the bottom too, but there's no avoiding some work to get the slimy film off the inside of the bottle after filling it with energy drinks.
I love the 2-way release trigger (thumb push or pull with index finger), the multi-release rear shifter (can shift to two higher gears on the same push/pull, and also to four lower gears on the same push), and the swiss watch-like sound and feel of the clicks, and the high end SP41 cable set it comes with, but the paddles still feel a little flimsy for my tastes.
I'm a thumb-push kind of guy and I feel at home on SRAM shifters. The SRAM paddles feel much more solid and don't have as much free movement before it feels resistance. I also like the match maker 2 system, though I haven't tried the I-spec system to compare. If the SRAM shifter also had multi-release and had a 2/3x adjustment for the front shifter, I feel it would beat XT. Not a XTR contender really, as it lacks that refined mechanical feel (the swiss watch feel), but the XX is super light at about 90g per shifter w/o cable.
Shimano just needs to work on those paddles and the "free play" before it engages to get this to feel perfect. I feel that its Swiss watch like feel actually is what makes it feel like it's worth the price over XT and SRAM offerings, not to mention the premium cable and housing included and longer warranty period.
Last small Huck n Roll had in stock, shipped late July '12. FIT RLC and Adaptive Logic RP23, though there are rumors that the latest shipments have '13 Fox CTD. Maxxis 2.4 Ardent EXO and 2.2 Ikon EXO tires instead of Schwalbe. ODI Ruffian with Yeti lock-on caps instead of Yeti logo grips. 12x142 rear thru axle. 711mm width handlebar, not 685. 70mm 6 +/- rise Thomson X4 stem (with 3mm bolt heads, wtf), not 90mm. Cassette only has biggest 3 cogs (in alloy instead of steel) on alloy spider, which I thought should've had another group of 3 cogs also on a spider if truly a XT cassette. Thomson Elite 30.9x367 seatpost. WTB Rocket V Yeti Logo saddle with NiCro rails. Other tech specs should be correct.
Waiting on Chris King thru axles and adjusting clamps before riding it. Tempted to ride it as is, as the DT wheels are really smooth and high quality and I could just keep the CK wheels on my lighter XC bike. Also might switch to a 160 rotor up front, as 180 with the adapter is suffering from brake rub out of the box, esp if these XT brakes are as powerful as everyone says. Gonna weigh again after CK wheels, Reverb seatpost, and Enve DH riser bar goes on.
For how long it took to ship (about 1 week from order to getting a tracking #), the build job wasn't all that great. On top of the front brake rub, I'll have to tune the FD some too, or just get rid of it (go 1x10), as I'm getting chain rub on the inside of the cage when using the 6 largest cogs in the middle ring. I also had a little difficulty removing the wheel plug off the cassette side of the rear wheel. Was jammed in there so tight that I pulled the whole cassette and freehub body off the DT hubs, exposing the spring and star ratchets. Had to slide it back on and hold it on while I used the thru axle to tap the plug out. I'd say something about the stem, saddle, and tire/fork/shock air pressure, but basically everyone needs to adjust those anyways. At least the hoses and cable housing aren't extremely long.
A little overhyped & expensive, but still high quality & beautiful, and has great support from the mfg
They came a bit tight, resisting spinning, which I thought would detract from pedaling performance. To see if they would loosen up with a ride, I tried them out in front of the house, and without too much effort, I managed to get the pedal body to come off the pedal spindle, due to the threads of the nut that holds the pedal body on the axle being stripped off.
I sent them in to Twenty6, where they replaced the stripped nut, rebuilt it, and got it spinning smoother, and got them back about 10 days after they left my hands. I just weighed them out curiosity and found that they came in at 314g, which is what HnR lists, but some other sites list this as weighing 265g. My scale is properly calibrated and zero'd with the tray. This seems to be the latest version, which has a beefed up pedal body, which I hear was necessary due to the tapped holes for the pins not holding up to pedal strikes.
For the price, I expected the best, but compared to the competition, their price seems too high for what you get. It's no longer super light, but more around the weight of a Point1 Podium, which was my other option. The need to replace pins frequently seems to make them even more expensive; I've already lost 3 pins after only 2 rides. Despite all that, it's one of the only quality options if you want it in a certain color. I kind of took the looks part for granted, but the more I look at them, the more I appreciate them. The beauty of them is what you are really buy into. Kind of seems a shame that I'm putting them on my primary trail ripper, in place of some stout Sunline V-1s, which sees a lot of pedal bashing due to the 12.5" BB height and how trails seem to be built to take you through the chunky rocks on purpose (which I happen to like).
I used to dread getting goathead thorns in my tires and needing to patch either 5+ holes, since I'd get 5+ goatheads embedded in my tire at a time, or replacing my tube. Thorn resistant tubes didn't work and even DH tubes didn't work. I was ready to convert to tubeless with Stan's, until I found this.
I pumped some of this with the Caffelatex injector into my tubes, which don't have removable valve cores. That's all it took. I've discovered some nice side effects too, such as tire pressures remaining constant despite not riding for days. I also am no longer afraid of going through certain parts of the trail, feeling more inclined to adventure through neglected overgrown trails. When riding to the trail, I ride in the dirt instead of trying to share the pavement with the cars that only give you an extra few inches of extra space when passing.
Now when I see goatheads embedded in my tires, I just smile.
It's not whether this is any better than Stan's or Slime, it's how good it is for certain needs and it seems to handle my needs perfectly. I also mix this stuff with Stan's for my tubeless tires, to help initial sidewall sealing, as I hate spending 10 minutes on the Stan's shake and lay flat on side procedure to create a seal. I rather just put sealant in, pump it up, and ride. I'd go full Caffelatex, but I still had some Stan's and I know Stan's works great at sealing relatively large punctures, while I'm not quite so certain how this stuff will work on any relatively big punctures and don't really want to find out in an inopportune time.
Seems to be made for those looking for a big step up in functionality from swim trunks over lycra shorts, but not the toughness from other AM/DH shorts.
Single snap with velcro with adjustable velcro waist tabs keep the shorts on adequately, better than simple single snaps which pop open the moment you lean forward or tuck too far.
The liner is decent, comparable to Jett's liner, but not as good as Swobo's. Better than Nema's, but is also removable.
The shell's inseam and leg circumference is not to my liking. It might be a size thing, as I have size sm (28" waist), but am 5' 7" and ~145 (+/- 5) lbs and it fits kind of tight. The legs fit close around my hams/quads and that little bit of skin between the bottom of my shorts and my knee pads is something I only like seeing on girls wearing knee socks and short skirts.
The fabric's probably the same stuff they use to make baggy swim trunks out of. Not a fan of that fabric.
Probably worth it at the current sale price with the liner considered. Not a bad look if you don't wear knee or shin protection. If I didn't already own a set of shorts from most other manufacturers, i would've rated this rather high. I'll stick to Jett, even though they cost a lot more and don't ever become this cheap on sale.
Edit: now that I see others reviews about how this short runs small, I kind of understand why this short feels so small on me. Hmm, I think these will be stuck on the bottom of my stack of riding shorts, so I think I should return 'em.
I got this since it was cheap and looked well designed and I trusted the Feedback brand. It worked well to true a few wheels. The biggest complaint I had was needing to flip the wheel around to check for dish and the little bit of extra time it took to lock the wheel into the stand. It does the job, but just lacks the convenience of the higher end stands like the Park TS 2.2. I feel there's no truing stands between this and the TS 2.2 worth getting though. Go cheap and functional or all out, IMO. This stand already paid for itself in the amount of time and money it would've cost to have a bike shop to tune up my wheels and I gained skills doing it, actually itching to build a new wheel. Though I kind of want the TS 2.2 for the actual wheel build I'm aiming to get.
This is nice if you have a few wheels to true, or want to check out after replacing a few spokes, that you're not really too attached to and just like to thrash and are on a budget. If you have a larger budget and are serious about your wheel's condition, looking to get more frequent use out of it or trying to true or build up some higher end wheels, then get the Park TS 2.2.
If you have axles bigger than 10mm, look for truing stand adapters from brands like Problem Solvers.
This measures a minumum of 60-70g and rounds up or down to the nearest 10g. That's an amazing accuracy rate for this type of scale. I'd dare to say even a weight weenie could make do with one of these without a gram scale.
I never thought I'd need 745mm bars and anything smaller than a DH/FR/park bike, but after trying it on a big bike, I went wide on all my bikes. Definitely improves your handling!
I love Sunline. They seem to be perpetually on sale, but I don't know why. I can't find anything wrong about them. They're proven in races, so I'm not worried about their rep. They even come in colors! The sale price is just another plus.
These grip like no other platform pedal I've tried and they feel very solid. Doesn't feel like they're about to break or are bending under my weight and they shrug off the hits like it doesn't give a shit. I'd be more worried about the impact of pedal strikes going to the cranks, BB, or frame than their effect on the pedals. They're heavy. I'd upgrade them for something lighter, since I installed them on a lightweight carbon XC/trail bike, but I have a feeling I'd be going back to the Sunlines and then 10 years from now, I'll be telling the new school rides how they don't make pedals as bombproof as the Sunline V-1s anymore.
What's the palm side look like? How about construction around the finger tips?
One of the best fitting and most comfortable knee pads ever -- standard by which all other knee pads should be judged
Haven't found any knee pads that fit better and more comfortably than these yet. I guess I should stock up on them when they are on sale. I go through them pretty fast, since I wear them full time on every trail, even when pedaling up long climbs to the top of the mtn.
There's just something missing about them. I keep wanting to try other pads. The last set of pads I tried were the Race Face Flank, which are already tearing after 6 months and occassionally have issues with slipping down. They also leave the calf exposed to pedals (accidentally hit them when walking the bike or turning it around on a narrow trail).
These are 5 stars until I find something that truly beats it. Combine these with a decent shin pad, especially if you ride flat pedals. The 661 veggie shin pads are an awesome combo with it.
Tried this elbow guard in medium and find it slides down my arm too easily, due to trail chatter. It seemed loose, so I tried to size down to small, but same deal. It's still kind of loose and still slides down. Tried to wear it over some arm warmers and also over a long sleeve jersey, but same issue. Even when slid down, it still offers decent protection coverage, though the sliding nature makes it seem like it won't stay in place in a crash. It's not uncomfortable, unless you count the urge to want to slide it back up.
Have the same issue with with my Race Face Rally FRs in medium, though the small Race Face Rally FRs fit me great. Gonna go back to using those. I simply wanted one I could use with a wrist brace which my Rally FRs don't allow, since the forearm guard protects right up to the wrist.
I've hit my shoulder a few times on trees and walls of dirt and landed on my chest a few times, so I wanted to get some protection. The Evo suit was way too hot for XC rides in SoCal summers, but I took think on a ride up Santiago Oaks and it felt alright. It was hot/tight enough to make me feel pain on the climbs and affect my performance (you can feel your chest being constricted), but the bamboo microfiber they use feels amazingly cool when you let the air hit it.
Only thing I don't really like about it is, it's not really long enough in the torso in size small. It only comes to about my hip bones and if it just had a little bit more length, I could maybe use that length to take the damn thing off. It's hard enough that I actually felt like practicing taking it off by myself.
I recommend the POC Hip short instead if you're looking for quality protection beyond abrasion protection on the side of your leg. This leaves your hip wide open and doesn't do much for the tailbone area and it's relatively rough, heavy, and bulky.
In the pic, it helps prevent only injuries like the one on the left, but not the one on the right. POC Hip Shorts will protect against both and offers real protection for the tailbone area. Those tiny squares of very soft foam in these shorts, 2 seen above the side of leg pad and a few on the back, offer virtually no protection.
These don't slip/twist on my carbon bars, don't really notice the ergo effect all that much, and have allow a good grip on the handlebar. This is along the lines of an ODI Ruffian, in terms of padding (this is a bit thicker). My hands got callouses trying to get used to em, considering I'm a type that tends to pull back on the bars on steep climbs. I imagine the Leicthbau version is even worse.
I personally prefer a more padded grip, since I was on Oury grips for 5 years before I went to these new fangled lock on grips and then ergo grips. I might just go for Oury lock-ons or maybe go for the GE1s instead (for an ergo grip without the big wing platform).
I found this useful, but since the magnetic base and the plate are not permanently attached, there were times I tried picking it up by the plate and the plate broke free of the base and all the parts sitting in it went flying. Looks like it's held by glue + the magnet. If you put the tray on any magnetic surface that is at least as wide as the base where you can't pick it up at the base, without sliding it off, then this is a hassle. On top of all that, the magnetic effect has strong spots and weak spots in the tray. There's like a narrow ring of where it's strong (from the edge of the center plateau to the park tool logo's sprocket), leaving the center very weak and anything outside of the center plateau with no magnetic effect (which is would be handy if the magnet effect was strong at all, for rolling off the parts). Also, it's not recommended for placing on top of repair stands at a slope... the magnet is just too weak.
Not surprising, considering the cost of this product, but I at least hoped Park wouldn't put their name on junk. Park has a very wide range of tools, for sure, but for certain smaller individual tools, I'm finding that the design and quality Pedro's and Wheelsmith tools and the affordability of other more affordable brands are preferable over Park more and more lately. Their non-everyday tools seem to be spot on though, from their BB extractor tools, to their truing stand.
I used to think tubes were tubes. How could they mess up such a simple product? Why pay $5-10 for premium ones? Well, apparently, the process of making tubes is a delicate process and hasn't been perfected over the centuries by all. Cutter must've picked up a clueless start-up as a source, that or their rejects are being supplied.
I major design flaw is likely the unthreaded valves that don't screw down to be secure against the rim. 2 out of the 4 tubes developed slits right around the base of the valve, which cannot be patched. You can't even use the valves for ghetto tubeless, for when you get sick of flats with tubes, since they can't be tightened down to seal the valve hole. Also, if you inflate it outside of a tire, you will find some sections bulge out in a shape that looks like an muscular arm with big forearms and massive biceps--if that's any way to judge for poor quality, these would be a showcase winner. I think their best use is to simply act as big rubber bands.
To top it all off, these are more expensive than other generics. Don't waste your money. Try Q-tubes for some quality but inexpensive tubes.