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Bikes like this aren't really "sized" like a normal bike.... Seat Tube and standover are going to be the same for both sizes, But it's the top tube that changes....
Bottom bracket is included.
I believe it's 113 for 68/73, (123 for 83's). You're gonna need a longer spindle than the offering here......
@ creakywall- Shimano SLX M-660 9sp. 44t. Triple http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/mountain/slx/product.-code-FC-M660.-type-..html
....is really just a helmet. This one works great, but makes my head appear more mushroom-like than others. Still gave 5 stars as it does what it should.
.....a good looking helmet! Seriously, that was my only reason for purchasing this helmet. Does everything it should (at least I hope).........
I noticed this too; I actually made no adjustments to the Front Mech, but removed the crankset and installed a set of shimano SLX's, and front shifting cleaned up REAL quick. The Bike shop JBird was on to the right problem (chainline) with their spindle recommendation, but at today's prices for outstanding cranks I would heartily recommend ditching the FSA's. I saved 11 oz by doing so.
Dunno about the nomad model, but something tells me this is a "stock clearance" sale for the Driver 8, so I'm sure the sizes listed are all that are available.
Both. 5 degrees UP, 9 degrees BACK. Very common geometry for many bar manufacturers.
Look up.... Right...... Under "Tech Specs"...... 580mm.
Not only a different rear mech, but shifter as well. That's only if you're running a single-ring setup; if you're shifting up front too you'll need an appropriate crankset and FD, and a shifter while you're at it.
I wear a size 43 shimano. Anyone wear both 5-10's and Shimmies and have some sizing advice?
Like Gonzoni mentioned, it's like 90% assembled. You'll need a 4mm allen for the stem/handlebar and brake/shift controls, a 5mm allen for the rear mech, a 15mm pedal wrench, and you'll need to remove a fair bit of packing material that protects everything in transit. Toss the wheels on, dial in your sag to your preferences using a GOOD shock pump (not included), and you're pretty much done. Brakes are pre-bled and MY calipers needed no adjustment, but avid makes this easy if necessary. Front and rear mechs were just fine, but keep in mind you're cables will stretch, so if you do spend any money on adjustments, wait 30-90 days(depending on use) for the cables to stretch.
I will LOUDLY echo Gonzoni's advice regarding your comfort level with all these procedures: If you're not comfortable doing this by all means use a LBS. Good luck.
There are several factors to consider Murphy, and I will place them in the the order I prioritized them in when I ordered the bike. First, however, I took a bike in my living room of known geo. I'm 70". tall with LONG legs and arms (or small trunk; whatever.) My Living room bike has a 23.5" TT, 72.5 deg STA, 20mm offset seatpost, 100mm stem, and 31.5" standover. It offers a mildly upright position without feeling too constrained in the cockpit. I simply compared it with the Tanuki's geo and accounted for the additional room I desired in the cockpit.
First, this bike *may* feature a zero-offset post; mine didn't as Kona may have responded to a rather poor online review that found it to be potentially controversal. Either way, seat rails still offer adjustabliity, but before ordering, I counted on it creeping into my desire for more cockpit room. That's a 20mm loss. That's 0.8". I need to add to my Living room bike, putting it at a 24.3" TT MINIMUM. Things were already leaning towards the 19.
Now, the stem. The 17" Tanuki features a 70mm stem, the 18 an 80mm, and the 19 a 90. Eyeballing the 19", this looks like a 10mm loss that should be added to our TT length. 10mm = 0.4". We're now at a 24.7" TT length to give me enough room in the cockpit.
Seat tube angle is pretty sharp at 74. To counter this, I slammed the seat back in it's rails to tame this to some degree, and this also gave me an additional 15mm or 0.6". I can now subtract this from the "required" 24.7", putting it back at 24.1".
The 19 features a 24.5" TT. This looked like it would give me that extra touch of room I was looking for.
Last but not least I compared standover, which happens to be identical on paper.
Now, all the above hasn't included ALL variables in achieving my sizing goals, but approximation. After all, it's not available in a 18.5634573", 20.90798" or 16.1231" size. However, this little bit of simple math led me to an obvious choice, but this was based on MY desires in geo/fit. You might be a short wheelbase junkie or happen to want a very relaxed, cushy, and upright ride. YOU prioritize.
I found the 19" geo specs on the 2012 Kona site. Good luck.
Set at 140mm, Todd.