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Orbea Orca Bronze/SRAM Rival Complete Road Bike - 2013

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Item # ORB0081

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Item # ORB0081


Orbea modeled its new Orca BRV after its flagship Gold and Silver road bikes, applying many of the same technologies and design elements into its makeup. However, we're all able to rejoice that the aforementioned arrives at a price that's, well, more attainable. The lines and geometry are strikingly similar to Orbea's top-end machines, and so too is the stable handling, exceptional ride quality, and overall comfort that Orbea carbon road bicycles are known for.

The Orca BRV was built using Orbea's Bronze grade carbon. Essentially, this is a blend of intermediate modulus fibers that have a touch more elasticity than the higher modulus fibers used to construct both the Gold and Silver Orcas. The result is a durable layup that provides a smooth, compliant, and road-dampening feel. However, this is achieved without compromising the Orca's trademark, rigid pedaling platform. Accordingly, your pedaling power is directed straight into the back wheel, instead of being wasted on flexing the frame side-to-side.

Like the Gold and Silver models, The BRV frame and fork were molded using a monocoque construction method. Essentially, this creates a homogenous structure with fibers running continuously along the length of the tubes and through the intersections. This increases the total strength of the bike, particularly at the tube junctions. Additionally, it adds to frame's overall durability. However, there are a few structural differences that separate the Orca BRV from the Silver and Gold. The BRV uses alloy dropouts, which are a few grams heavier than the full-carbon versions found on the more expensive models, but the tradeoff is that they are much more durable. Also, the seat tube on the BRV is round whereas the Gold and Silver have a more sculpted, aerodynamic shape. This allows the use of a standard round seatpost and conventional clamp assembly.

Aside from these small differences, the front triangle uses the same planar styling as the other Orca models. The angular tube shapes and pronounced edges are the result of what is known as Finite Element Analysis (FEA), which was engineered to create resistance to flex in critical areas like the bottom bracket, seat tube, and head tube junction. Orbea also applied what it terms as Size Specific Nerve (SSN) technology in order to produce frames that provide the same comfort and ride-quality characteristics throughout the size range. In other words, each frame size has specific carbon layups and tube dimensions, providing the same road-tuned feel regardless of what size of frame you select.

The Orca BRV was built with a BB30 bottom bracket and a tapered, oversized head tube. Both of these details work to decrease weight while increasing stiffness where it counts. At the bottom bracket, you’ll enjoy a stiffer and lighter junction compared to standard external bearing design, which is the same for the tapered, 1.5-inch lower bearing head tube. Both of these design characteristics were trickled down from the Silver and Gold models, which increases the torsional stiffness of the frame.

As for the build of the Orca BRV, Orbea spec'd the bike predominantly with SRAM's dependable Rival 10-speed drivetrain, finishing it off with a BB30 Apex 50/34t compact crankset. The cockpit received Orbea's aluminum Pro bar and stem, with a carbon post supporting Selle Italia's SL Flow saddle. In the wheel department, Orbea wrapped its durable, smooth-rolling 28-spoke alloy wheels in Vittoria's Rubino tires.

The Orbea Orca BRV Complete Road Bike is available in the color Anthracite and in six sizes from 48 to 60cm.

Tech Specs

Frame Material:
Orbea Orca Bronze
Orbea Orca
Fork Material:
Orbea Orca Bronze
1.125 - 1.5 in integrated
SRAM Rival
Front Derailleur:
SRAM Rival
Rear Derailleur:
SRAM Rival
50 - 34 t
Bottom Bracket:
not included
11 - 32 t
Brake Levers:
SRAM Rival
Brake Calipers:
Orbea Pro
Orbea Alu Pro
Orbea Alu Pro
Selle Italia SL Flow
Orbea Carbon
Orbea 28
Vittoria Rubino
Tire Size:
700 c 23 mm
Recommended Use:
road cycling
Manufacturer Warranty:
lifetime on frame

sizing chart

Bike size by rider height


Geometry chart


Geometry Chart


 Seat Tube

Effective Top Tube






Head Tube


Head Tube Angle


Seat Tube Angle


Bottom Bracket Height


Bottom Bracket Drop




48 45.4cm 52.0cm 50.0cm 36.0cm 10.4cm 71.5o 74.75o 26.7cm 7.0cm 40.5cm 97.0cm
51 48.4cm 53.5cm 53.0cm 37.7cm 12.0cm 72.1o 73.5o 26.7cm 7.0cm 40.5cm 97.0cm
53 50.4cm 54.5cm 55.2cm 38.0cm 14.5cm 72.1o 73.5o 26.7cm 7.0cm 40.5cm 98.0cm
55 52.4cm 55.5cm 57.2cm 38.2cm 16.5cm 73.5o 73.2o 26.7cm 7.0cm 40.8cm 98.8cm
57 54.4cm 57.0cm 59.0cm 39.1cm 18.5cm 73.2o 73.2o 26.7cm 7.0cm 40.8cm 99.8cm
60 57.4cm 59.0cm 62.1cm 40.3cm 20.5cm 73.5o 73.2o 26.7cm 7.0cm 40.8cm 101.3cm

Orbea Orca Geometry Chart

Reviews & Community


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Avg. ride time: 6h 27m per week
  • Average ride time is based on Strava activity over the last 3 months. Give your reviews credibility by connecting your account.

I like it

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I have ridden almost 2500 miles on this bike mostly doing big climbs and their descents. I would have preferred a better/lighter crankset but this was a good price. I especially liked how it came ready w the 32 cassette. I don't use the 32 as much as I used to but I prefer a very high cadence and this suits me well and allows me to pass many riders up the HC climbs. If you want to maintain a 85+ cadence up a 11%+ grade you either use a 32 or go full gas on the 28/25 and get top 10% on strava. I can't comment on stiffness since I have nothing to compare it to (my first good bike mostly) but I feel good getting out of the seat and on the big descents.

Avg. ride time: 1h 7m per week
  • Average ride time is based on Strava activity over the last 3 months. Give your reviews credibility by connecting your account.

So far so good, except....

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

my rear wheel was shipped with about 6-8 loose spokes. Got one spin up the street and the sound coming from that rear wheel scared me!

Looked for many possible causes of the sound and only noticed that it was coming from the wheel when I my wife ride it as I walked beside her. This led to the immediate removal of the wheel and trip to the bike shop to get it back in working order.

Other than that the bike seems to have a nice feel so far. I'll update the review and rating once I can get a real ride on it.

So after 1000 miles on the bike I'm kind of spoiled.. It's an amazing bike.. the only thing is that now it's way heavier than when I bought it. Ironman 70.3 setup has added quite the weight, but over all this thing is a work horse! SRAM Rival is solid and once my HIM is done with I'll lighten it back up :) push it though the winter and hopefully Santa reads my wishlist of upgrades!

Can anyone tell me how to take apex crank...

Can anyone tell me how to take apex crank off from the bike?

People say that there is 8mm hex within BB part, but I see no 8mm hex but there is only 10mm.

I asked directly to CC stuff and got answer. It seems the apex crank of this bike can be removed from drive side of nut instead of non-drive side which is the way for other sram cranks. The crank shaft and non-drive side crank is one piece so you need to take drive side off first, then use hammer or whatever to pull crankshaft off which is probably assembled by pressfit.

My new ride

    Bought this bike just before Christmas, it was my Christmas present from my wife so she didn't let me open it until Christmas Day. Everything looks great; I also purchased Ksyrium equipe wheelset to replace the Orbea wheels. I've only ridden it about 5 miles just to check adjustments, etc. Unfortunately we have been in the midst of one of the worst winters we've seen in a while so I haven't been back out on it. Right now it is great for drying my hat and gloves on. The short ride that I did take the bike felt incredible. The assembly was pretty minimal and everything worked flawlessly. Once I've ridden it a bit more I will most likely need to tweak some of the adjustments. I'm new to SRAM so that will take a little getting used to. Probably will only post further reviews if there is a problem, otherwise I'll be out riding

    Orbea Orca Bronze

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times

    Received my bike on Tuesday. Did the final assembly and did my 1st ride on Thursday. Easy ride to get the feel of this new machine. Great bike. Smooth ride, shifting and handling. Will do some smaller adjustments today, seat height, angle, depth, etc..., 1st all carbon bike and loving it. Can't say enough about the bike and how well Competitive Cyclist packed this bike. Great value and a customer for life.

    How easy was it to assemble out of the box?

    It is pretty simple if you have any experience working on bikes at all. Attach the stem/bars, put on the wheels and adjust the deraileurs/brakes. Really, all assembly could be done using a multi tool out of a saddlebag.


    It took me about 30 minutes total and that included adding my SPD pedals, adjusting the brakes and the seat height. I've now ridden this on 2 longer rides, 73 and 82 mile rides. I love it even more. Smooth ride, smooth shifting. I was on a Bianchi Vigorelli Aluminun w/ a carbon fork. The carbon Orbea is much smoother.

    It feels all right.

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    This is a good bike. If you already have a good high end bike, you wouldn't regret getting this one to use it for other purpose/other type of riding.

    Geometry review:

    The frame itself is ok however the 53cm model(54.5 top tube) comes with a 110mm stem and a 95~100mm reach handlebar so the stock fit may be better for people with longer torso at the same height. Some of you may better prepare yourself with other stem and handlebar beforehand.

    Head tube could have been designed to be taller, considering the targeted market.

    Components Review: Yes, low end wheel, sram rival and apex crank are making it a heavy bike, not suitable for climb however I consider the weight to be normal at this price point. Shifting are great, Sram noisy chain as always, one may ride faster so the wind and tire noise will cover up the chain noise.

    Stiffness/Comfort/Tube Shape review:

    The frame isn't terribly soft, it can still make effortless on-the-saddle climb, the huge downtube(not obvious in the pictures on this page) is certainly doing its job properly.

    Another feature that's not shown in competitivecyclist's pictures is the collapsing/flexing feature on the seat stay and fork, a proof that the design on this frame is up to date and trendy. They do make your ride smooth based on how I feel compared to my other bike. 25C tire seems to be compatible on front and rear based on visual check.


    Overall CG seems to be closer to the back compared to my other bike.

    Knee clearance is slightly compromised on the top tube. Thoughtful paint/surface treatment on certain area that may be designed for scratch resistance.

    It feels all right.

    A note to competitivecyclist and owners: It's better to have these between the downtube and cables to keep it quiet

    Thx for the review. I just purchased one as well. I get it tomorrow. I have never had carbon before so for me I am expecting a nice improvement.

    Where do you buy those small rubber circles for the cables?


    Thank you for the detailed review. I also just ordered this. A few questions: What do you mean by these 2 comments?: "Overall **CG** seems to be closer to the back compared to my other bike.

    Knee clearance is slightly compromised on the top tube." I don't know what CG signifies. Also, what does knee clearance being compromised mean?

    It appears based on your photo (thanks for that btw) that you put in an Ultegra crank. Do find and sync issues with the other SRAM components?

    Thanks again!

    LBS or ebay should have those rings, normally you wouldn't need it on most smooth road surfaces.

    CG closer to the rear could mean it's over design on the seat stays/ rear triangle, or it could mean that there are more heavy components at the back on the bike, or it could mean nothing. I don't think the front to back CG of the bike will significantly affect how the bike feel. There might be some people out there who care about this. Top tube on this bike is wide enough to touch one's knees occasionally depending on one's pedaling dynamics, toe in/out, cleats position/alignment, especially in out of saddle position.

    The 11 speed chainring spacing ultegra crank works flawlessly with the front derailleur and stock chain, no adjustment is needed on the front derailleur as long as your change remains a compact crank.

    So by "cg" do you mean center of gravity? Thx

    Thanks again for the response. Interest that you say that you put an 11 speed ultegra crankset on the bike. Did you change the rear dr also? I was told everything either has to be 10 or 11 but no mixing. Thanks.

    I did not change the RD, the stock one works with the crank without any problem

    Thanks for your review! I've been eyeing this bike for quite the time now and I still can't decide. I'm riding a 1994 Specialize Epic and i'm sure anything I upgrade to will be far better in terms of performance, but i'm curious as to how to fit it to me, I'm wondering what length that stem is because I was thinking of ordering a 3T cockpit to go along with it and maybe a new wheelset. What wheels did you fit in that photo?

    My other choice is a Cervelo R3 that's on closeout at a LBS. Tough decisions.

    110mm stem and 95 reach handlebar on their 53cm. Please do not choose frame size based on your old Epic, modern fit is different. Avoid buying cockpit models that are not recent. The handlebar and stem system has been evolving quite a lot... even in the recent years. I put a bladeX wheel from R3 has elegant tube shape while the Orbea has chunkier tubeshapes. Advantage of buying the R3 is that you can talk to the bike fit technician at your LBS(if there's one in the shop). Please do not make judgement by yourself based on how you feel about the R3 because you may not know how a modern fit should feel, instead, talk to a fit technician. So if there isn't a dedicated fitting room and fit expert at your LBS, it would make it one less reason to consider Cervelo R3. Either choice, I would always recommend that you pay for fit service to get everything right. Do figure out the exact size stem and handlebar you need before you purchase 3T if you are considering high end model.

    Is this frame stiff enough for a 212 pound...

    Is this frame stiff enough for a 212 pound rider?

    Best Answer

    Best answer to this question would be maybe. The frame likely won't be stiff enough if you are planning on racing crits while throwing down 1000 watts sprints. If you are looking for a frame for general riding or even road races, it will likely be plenty stiff. The ride on this frame is great though. Smooth but not dead.

    200 lbs and 6'5" a 60cm is still plenty stiff notice it on trainer hard as a rock for a big frame

    I sent message to Orbea on weight limit, and they reply me there is no such thing.

    I just purchased this bike and I weight over 280lbs.

    They have lifetime warranty so if you break the frame by weight, I think it will be covered.

    Let's see Orbea's carbon fiber technologies.

    Just purchased & ridden several x's!

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times

    Okay let me start out by saying I have had carbon bikes before so I am use to their intricasies and the feel. I will also add this caveat..........I like Orbea brand. I also have a 2011 Aqua with 105 drivetrain and that bike is a rider! This however is my first try at SRAM componetry. Always wanted to try it but really had no reason because Shimano has performed flawlessly for me over the past decade. This bike as you can see was SRAM Rival minus the crank which was Apex < why Orbea pull the cheaper card here I don't know. I also had no idea because I did not read closely it was a BB30 system. Never had a press in BB in my life and started to research after the purchase. Well, it was dismal from most consumers that it had me a bit worried. But none the less, the bike came in so I finished the slight assembly needed. Let me say this, CC is a great company to deal/buy from and they are top notch. The bike came boxed well and fully insured if some accident came it's way in transit. Not a single solitary gouge or mark on the outer box from UPS........Kudos to UPS! I can wrench so I mainly wanted to get the bike assembled and check the drivetrain since that was the biggest anticipation I had. I like the system other than the FD I am having a issue getting totally dialed in. It is a 50-34 compact and a 11-32 cassette. I would not expect any cross chain rub but it does have some in the extreme opposite rings front to back. Not real bad but enough that I wish I could get it totally dialed because I really don't think this setup should have any. Plus the trim effect on the front is not near as good as my full 105 on the Aqua which has great trim and no cross chaining what so ever. But back to the bike. The bike is fairly stiff for sprinting and mashing those pedals so don't be afraid of the Bronze frame here which is claimed to not be as stiff as the Silver or Gold version in their higher end bikes. Overall, 8.5 out of 10! No more characters to cont.

    Commenting on my own review here folks! Okay...........several more rides under the belt of this bike and I have to say the bike is performing as expected minus the annoying cross chain of a few gear selections. But after repeated FD adj. it just can't be helped. May be that setup from the factory of a 50-34 to 11-32 rear cassette. Either way the bike has done it's job in climbing and overall increase in speed. Could not be happier. The trim on the FD for the large chain ring is dismal so don't expect much there. Is really useless. But other than that the frame is great and my first BB30 is okay. I guess I got a good one from the factory as compared to the bad reviews of a BB30 system. Worth the money for this ride.

    Thanks for the review. Mine will be here Monday and your review helped finalize the decision.

    Matt how have you liked the bike so far. I have done some changes to the stock setup and have had a few FD issues but getting them worked out I think now.

    I am happy with it. I wapped out the bars (FSA Wing Pro Compacts) and crank (Force) and wheelset that came off my last bike and I am sitting at 17.66 pounds for a 51. Wheeset change saved me 1.5 pounds.

    Ride is great, very smooth and stiff enough for me. I've had the same trouble with the front derailleur so I will be putting a Force 22 Yaw deraileur on there this week. Its supposed to be a revelation compared to the Rival.

    Now I just need some better weather and time off work to ride.

    UPDATE 2- the new Force compact crankset on; Force brakeset; Force FD & RD. Had some issues getting the FD to work right. After a trip to my LBS and them telling me the weakest link in the SRAM lineup is their FD's because they have a small window to get dialed in perfectly we were successful. Also found out that the FD boss was slightly bent which the LBS corrected. So the bike is now in harmony again! Just beware that if you go from the Apex crank to a Force the wide spacer is no longer needed......just the plastic shims. The Force brakes are noticeably nicer with better modulation and stop force. The Force RD shifts like melted butter and now the FD is working as it should. Other than the trim effect on the big chain ring is still dismal but it was with the Rival FD as well. SRAM needs to perfect that area. But don't get me wrong........not a deal breaker and I do like the SRAM system. If I were to be given the choice of Force vs. Ultegra I would more than likely go to Ultegra. Only because the system is easier to tune. But once you get SRAM dialed in it is great. Great bike and would buy again at the price I paid. Oh yeah, the BB30 system is nice but when you go to change out worn bearings you need the right tools! A BB press is a must plus if you freeze the bearing cartridges prior to install they shrink for easier install and when they heat back up expand in the shell to fit nice and snug. Good luck.

    How would rank the stiffness of this frame...

    How would rank the stiffness of this frame as compared to the Orbea Aqua aluminum frame? I am no hardcore smasher/sprinter but I do like to pound it out from time to time and really sway a bike back and forth laterally. Thanks.

    Will answer my own question.................the frame is okay. I am no real hard constant sprinter so torsion of the frame is not a daily event in riding. But when I do sprint every so often it holds it's own. So overall without being able to compare to the Silver or Gold frame by Orbea I have to way to discuss. But I am happy with the Bronze. I am 192 lbs. so that gives you an idea of the weight I am putting onto this bike.

    Do you guys sell it in a size 61cm?

    Do you guys sell it in a size 61cm?

    Unfortunately the 60cm is the largest we currently have.

    Ben what is the effective top tube you are looking for? there are many different ways to measure a bike and a 61 on one bike is not the same as a 61 on another. feel free to give us a call and we can discuss how this bike compares to what you have