2005 Interbike Confidential
Over the last few years we’ve always written a general overview of the Interbike trade show — a piece we call the ‘Interbike Confidential’. We try our hardest to give you the inside scoop of the good, the bad, and the interesting. The cycling media has done an increasingly good job at covering Interbike, though. In fact, it’s done great work in the last year or two of covering not just Interbike, but the two other trade shows that immediately precede it — the EuroBike in Germany, and the Milan show. It’s not 2003 anymore, and what we recognize circa 2005 is that by the time we do our business at the show and then take the time to write our report, it’ll likely be old news to many of you. So this year’s Interbike Confidental will be a bit different than in years past. Our approach is a top 20 list of the things that most dramatically caught our attention. It’s less a summary of the show, and more a briefing on the things we discussed each night when our staff got together at dinner and chatted about what we saw.
One additional preface: The 2005 Interbike was perhaps most impressive in the general lack of product change and innovation we saw. For dealers, this is perhaps a good thing because in many instances their in-stock inventory gained an additional year of shelf life. The last several years have brought torrid technology advancements in almost every product category. If we had to sum up the 2005 show in one phrase, we’d say it was the year where the industry took a well-deserved breather.
We’re working in the spirit of Casey Kasem here — our list below is in reverse order of importance, and we can’t explain the science of our method (because, like Casey, there isn’t one). Other industry folk might argue with our rankings, and that’s fine with us. Ask us a week from now if we agree with what we’re writing right now — the morning after the show, our brains still pan-seared from the pressure of finalizing forecasts of a year’s worth of spending overlaid by the general lunacy of this city — we’ll probably disagree with ourselves too.
20. Pinarello 2006. Our experience viewing the US unveiling of the ’06 Pinarello line was a confirmation of our experience at the Pinarello factory in July. We wrote about this at great length in our ‘Granfondo’ series of articles you can find in our ‘What’s New’ archive. We’ll be brief here since we have nothing new to add to that article: Interbike simply served as a confirmation that Pinarello’s greatest strengths in 2006 will come at the top and the bottom of their line. At the high end comes the Paris Carbon. It offers the delicious beauty of pro-quality Italian carbon, along with the stiffness benefits you get from monocoque construction. What blows us away, though, is its MSRP: the frame, Onda fork, Pinarello headset, and Pinarello carbon seatpost is $3599. We know from experience that Pinarellos offer a ride quality that few brands match. We’ve spent a good bit of time both on the Dogma and the F4:13, and they offer stability and a descending quality that few other models can match. Given the Paris Carbon’s $3599 price, it’ll compete on two ends of the spectrum — both against the $4000+ options such as the Colnago C50 and Extreme-C, and against the value-packed ~$2500 options such as the Cervelo R2.5 and Scott CR-1.
On the other end of things is the Galileo complete bike. It has a triple-butted 7000-series aluminum frame with the same Onda full carbon fork and seatstay that you get in the Dogma FP. It comes in two options, a full Ultegra-10 build for $2199 and a full 105-10 build for $1899. In our minds it’s more or less a Pinarello Marvel frame with an upgraded fork and seatstay. It has the same geometry of a high end Pinarello, and in our minds it’s the ultimate answer to the ‘entry level’ bike mystery: With the Galileo you get a bike with a healthy bit of the performance and almost all of the aesthetics of a pro-quality race frame. If you love Italian bikes and you’re looking for a trainer bike or a rain bike or a 1st bike for your girlfriend, the Galileo needs to be on your short list. In comparison to your ‘A’ bike it makes few major performance concessions and at a glance it has the full style of a Dogma FP.
19. The Value Proposition. 2004 was a year when high end bike pricing perhaps took a step too far. The Colnago C50 crept up to $4400, the BMC SLT 01 was $3,150, and the Litespeed Ultimate approached the $4000 barrier. We’re not picking on these bikes. Actually, we really love them, and we merely cite them here as a reference point for bikes whose prices decrease greatly going into 2006. Each of these frames fall in price by $400-$500, due no doubt to a variety of complicated factors. What you can’t deny, though, is that many companies are choosing to worry less about committing to aggressive innovation here — at the high end — and instead open up the spigot wide for trickle-down technology to give their lower and mid-priced bikes stupendous value. We cite the Pinarello Galileo above, and that’s just one example. The Litespeed Teramo and the new-for-2006 Eddy Merckx carbon 1XM are two more examples of bikes skillfully built with state-of the art techniques — so much so, in fact, that we believe manufacturers are challenged to articulate the technological reasons for the fantastic price differential between the very high end and the quality mid-end.
This concept of the value proposition is one that intrigues us greatly. In the upcoming months you can expect a thorough analysis of options for complete bikes under $3000 in our ‘What’s New’ section. We love the high end more than anyone else. But what you can buy for less than $3000 in 2006 is amazing. The quality is really that stellar.
18. The Vanishing Big Guns. Trek and Specialized are the two superpowers of US bike industry, and they didn’t attend Interbike. Their reasoning is understandable: (a) It’s cheaper for them to fly all of their dealers to their respective locations and wine and dine them for a long weekend of product introductions, and (b) It’s easier to get dealers to swoon at this romancing since they won’t be distracted by the presence of competing brands. These dealer ‘conferences’ are strategically planned before Interbike, and dealers are greatly incentivized to make their inventory commitments to Trek or Specialized before Interbike. Thusly locked in, dealers literally have little if any room (in terms of floor space, and in terms of finances) to stray far from the mothership.
The bigger story is this: In order to achieve the success they envision for their companies, Trek and Specialized are placing huge bets on the strategy of ‘concept stores.’ Just like walking into an Apple store in New York City, or a Mercedes dealership in Dallas, what you’ll soon see at your local Trek or Specialized dealer is a store whose entire consumer experience is mapped out and circumscribed in a corporate conference room. Every last accessory and widget will be branded ‘Trek’ or ‘Specialized’, and all merchandizing, training and inventory oversight will be regulated at the corporate level.
While this ‘concept store’ strategy is likely a smart one for Trek and Specialized, the bike industry has long been one operated by what’s known as ‘IBD’s’ — Independent Bike Dealers. Opening a concept store, of course, is a conscious surrender of independence. Trek or Specialized are demanding ever-broader and more restrictive commitments from their dealers in an arrangement not too far from that of a franchise. But many IBD’s are unwilling to give up their entrepreneurial spirit and autonomy, and Interbike 2005 opened up many opportunities to manufacturers to gain a spot in successful, yet disgruntled Trek or Specialized dealers. The Scott USA booth, for example, had the most visibly feverish cauldron of traffic. We avoided the aisles that surrounded it because you simply couldn’t get by. Other brands — both full-line brands and niche ones — were clearly seizing the opportunity to have fresh conversations with dealers too smart/stubborn to kowtow to Trek and Specialized. Brands like Scott USA, Orbea, Cervelo, Litespeed, Titus, Seven, and Serotta will doubtlessly gain significant business of IBD’s skilled at mapping out their own business plans. Especially for folks in major metropolitan areas, you can expect an interesting evolution over the next 12-18 months in brick-and-mortar retail: You’ll see great shops offering a more diverse selection of bike brands than ever before. You’ll also see the proliferation of Trek and Specialized concept stores with the sort of intensely pre-digested experience that might feel comforting for someone embarking on the purchase of a $500 hybrid bike. But for those of us who like our bicycles expensive and slightly exotic, you’ll feel little draw to make a return visit.
17. The Reinvention of Litespeed. Change begins at the top, and that’s what we’ve seen at Litespeed in the last 6 months. As one of their most sizeable dealers, we were all too aware of some of their problems in 2004 and the beginning of ’05. Upper management exuded no vision — dealers didn’t feel the encouraging hand of leadership, and even worse was a marketing strategy that had all the substance of a bag of rice cakes. Many of their frames had gone more or less unchanged for 3 or 4 years. The innovative energy that took Litespeed from literally nothing to the most recognized Ti bike manufacturer on the planet was clearly depleted.
Over the last 6 months, though, we’ve seen a transformation that seems — even to our sometimes jaundiced eyes — utterly complete. As though a squadron of management consultants descended from the heavens, a choice passel of upper management quit or was fired. We saw crisp ad campaigns that asserted the relevance of Litespeed’s new-for-2006 bikes. And most importantly we saw a revamped bike line. Most of the press coverage has gone to the 770g Ghisallo. But even more impressive to us were the new Vortex, Vortex Compact, and Ultimate. While many esteemed Ti companies have evolved to become Ti/Carbon companies — we think of fantastic bikes such as the Seven Elium, the Serotta Otttott, and the Titus Exogrid series of frames — Litespeed has chosen to divorce itself entirely from carbon. They’ve developed tubing shapes every bit as radical as what you see from bikes such as the all-carbon BMC SLC Pro Machine. In fact, we’ve never seen any bicycle tube make the same sort of shape transitions as what you’ll see in the seat tube of the Vortex and the Ultimate. The goal here is to provide the highly tuned ride of the Elium or Ottrott, but to get there through extreme manipulation of Ti instead of turning to carbon.
One final great piece of news from Litespeed was that beginning in 2006 we’ll have the latitude to sell the Siena and the Tuscany — Litespeed’s most popular models — as framesets alone. In the past we were restricted to selling them as complete bikes.
16. Tacx Fortius Update. We’ve never had such intense interest about an indoor trainer before, but it’s for a great reason. The Fortius is a standard Tacx trainer with a built-in motor brake attached to the resistance unit. Your trainer interfaces to a DVD player that shows real videos of some of best-loved rides in the world, such as Mt. Ventoux and La Marmotte (the Croix de Fer, the Col du Telegraphe, the Col du Galibier, and Alpe d’Huez). As you pedal along, the scenery of the DVD rolls by. The speed of the scenery increased as your speed increases, and vice versa. As you climb (and as the gradient of the hills increases/decreases), the motor brake proportionally increases/decreases resistance. The same holds true with descents. The complete realism of the imagery and the integration of the road conditions into the resistance unit makes the indoor riding experience about as enjoyable as such riding can be.
We were told that the Fortius is ready to go. Testing is done, and production is nicely coming along. The main hold-up, apparently, is that Tacx has only made them for 220v power. I’m not sure if they forgot that the US is 110v, or if there’s some complication with the electronics inside the trainer due to the change from 220 to 110 — but that’s why they’re not here yet. From what we’ve been told, Tacx is close to resolving the issue, and trainers will be air-freighted to the US for mid-November delivery. The good news is that the DVD’s are already in stock, so once the trainers make it here, you’ll be all set.
15. Lightweight Ventoux Wheels. Lightweight’s current offerings are incredible for climbing — their Alpine pedigree from the Tour de France is more than proof enough of this. We love the Ventoux for a different reason: Not the extra weight it saves you for climbing (though that’s bonus) — it’s the added stability you gain thanks to its shallow cross section rim. A shallow rim isn’t susceptible to the wind gusts that push your bike around when you’re riding on 50mm rims. This is especially a critical issue for Lightweight owners since every model Lightweight is considered to be a climbing wheel. Think of it this way: What goes up must come down, and most long descents are done on a mountainside — on one side is the rock wall from which the road itself was dynamited out, and on your other side is a drop-off to the valley below. Thermals churn upward from the valley floor. When they reach you they blow in from one side and then bounce back as they hit the mountainside itself. Even if the breeze is a mild one, when you’re at speed the effect of this turbulence is amplified. By arming yourself with a shallow cross section wheel such as the Ventoux you gain substantial stability. Rim depth aside, it has all of the hallmark strength and stiffness of the Lightweight Standard and Obermeyer.
14. 12K Carbon Fiber. Most of us are largely accustomed to seeing one style of a carbon fiber finish — the 3K finish you see from frames such as the Colnago C50 and the Look 585, as well as products such as Campy Ergolevers. It has a tightly woven latticework and has long been the standard aesthetic for carbon products — so standard, in fact, that we never even heard it referred to as ’3K’ until this summer when we saw the 2006 Opera Bike Canova for the first time. We commented on this in our Granfondo report:
‘The ’3K’ designation specifies the finish of the frame itself…[meaning] that each visible square of material contains 3 carbon ‘strands’….The analogy between carbon fiber and expensive dress shirts is useful here — the more tightly you weave a fabric, the higher its quality. The tighter weave, in fact, goes beyond aesthetic concerns. A more tightly woven carbon provides superior strength — again, allowing the builder to use less material…’
As we roamed the halls of Interbike we saw 12K on numerous mid-level carbon bikes. The carbon ‘squares’ of 12K frames are substantially larger than 3K — something visible from far away. Beyond the Opera Canova we saw it on the new Look 565, the Scott CR-1, as well as one Orbea, and on one QR tri frame amongst others. Beyond the aesthetic shift, though, is the lack of consistency in answers we got from various manufacturers about whether 12K vs. 3K is indeed a structural issue as well as an aesthetic one. Pinarello made it clear to us this summer that the use of 12K requires more material to provide adequate frame strength. Look seemed to suggest that the 565′s 12K finish played no structural role in the frame. Rather, it was just the ‘skin’ of the bike and the only differentiation between the 585′s front triangle and the 565′s was the quality of the carbon being used. The 585 uses ‘VHM’ (Very High Modulus) carbon, while the 565 uses ‘HM’ (High Modulus) carbon, but the material difference in these grades of carbon had nothing to do with the finish. There were language barriers involved and our discussions were on very new topics — we’ll attribute our current uncertainty to that. We wished we had more time to hunt down clearer answers, but our agenda was just too darn full Based on what we can discern about which bikes were 12K and which weren’t, our gut instinct is that there’s a correlation between the relative quality of the bike and and its finish work. If a bike has 12K it’s likely a really nice bike, but not at the tip-top of the carbon product spectrum for that brand. Once we recover from the show and can hunt down a clearer answer, we’ll be sure to present a clearer overview on the subject.
13. Pink. We’ve played a visible role in the last month in promoting Chris King’s ‘Pretty and Strong’ promotion to raise Breast Cancer Awareness through sales of their limited edition pink-anodized headsets and hubs. It seemed as though a few companies took a cue from King — not by donating money to the Komen Foundation, but rather by comprehending that pink is a beautiful color for bikes and componentry. One example was a fantastic set of Phil Wood single speed hubs anodized pink. But ‘Best in Show’ in terms of pink must go to Look. They offer two bikes for 2006 in pink — the mid-level 555 and the amazing 486 Special Edition. When we stood in front of them it was easy to declare them the loveliest bikes at Interbike. Beauty, of course, isn’t a scientific thing — proof of that came each night as we’d cruise home from dinner through the casino floor. About every 12 footsteps we’d set eyes on the most beautiful woman we’d ever seen. Each one would be thoroughly different from the previous, but each assaulted us equally with their exquisiteness. Bikes are the same way — falling in love with embarrassing frequency is a regular Interbike phenomenon. No bike made us fall as hard or as fast, though, than the pink duo from Look.
11. Pegoretti. We saw the introduction of two new frames from Pegoretti — the ‘Love #3′ and the ‘WWDGTB’. Love #3 is an aluminum frame made from Columbus XLR8R Scandium tubing with impressively sizeable tubing diameters. It takes many cues from the Big Leg Emma as far as that oversizing goes, including massive chainstays only 5mm narrower in diameter than that of the BLE. Dario characterized it as a ‘pure race bike’ due to its priority on lightness and stiffness, and he stated that it’s the bike that ’50% of the people want, and 70% of them don’t need.’ It uses the same front triangle as what Dario uses on his aluminum mountain bike, so the strength of the frame is beyond question, and there is no rider weight limit.
WWDGTB is short for ‘Wild Women Don’t Get the Blues’ — a 650c-only frame built with women-specific geometry (steeper seat angle, slacker head angle). It’s made from the same Columbus Niobium Spirit steel tubing you find in his other steel frames. The base color of the paint is the glossy grey he used for the CCKMP in 2003, along with an abundance of watery white brushstrokes and random computer code-like digits in sequence wrapped around the tubes — ’00437E1C’ then ’00457E21′ and on and on with a creepy technoid repetition reminiscent of what Radiohead does with the song ‘Fitter Happier’. On another day, though, we wondered if those numbers are a collection of the room numbers left with him by the countless women attendees who flock to him at the Gita booth like he’s a rock star. Other than Eddy Merckx and George Hincapie, few of the ‘stars’ of the show had such a dense throng of people fighting for his attention.
Perhaps the most interesting detail in Dario’s 2006 bikes is the transition we’ve seen in some of his new paint schemes. In the past his paint has shown the heavy influence modernist paint (after all, he even has a scheme called ‘Jackson Pollock’) along with a nice bit of ludic pop art. In 2006 the playfulness wanes a bit and in its place is a bit more anger and longing. The paint of the Love #3 surrounds lines from a handwritten note Dario addresses to the Italian bike industry at large — damning them for their lack of craft and vision. And what we see in the 2006 Marcelo is a scheme he calls ‘Why Not?’ with depictions of beautiful, half-dressed women in poses so alluring they’d make any man ask that very question. It’s less a celebration of beauty, and more a statement of the difficulties of coping with what Charles Mingus refers to as ‘The Passions of a Man.’
10. Zipp Flashpoint. Over the last few years Zipp has provided consistent and always-impressive innovation on the high end of the wheelset business. Many of us fully expected to walk into the show this year and see (finally!) a full-carbon clincher from Zipp. Their current clincher wheels are fairly nice, but given the fact that they still use an aluminum braking track and weigh in the same ballpark as Ksyrium SL’s, many of us wonder if they’re overpriced at $1600.
No one was more surprised than us to see that not only did Zipp NOT introduce a carbon clincher, but in fact their only new introduction for 2006 was that of a mid-priced wheelset known as the Flashpoint. It’s available as clincher only, and it comes in both 40mm and 60mm rim options. At a glance it appears to compete with wheels in the Ksyrium SL and Campy Eurus price range, but we must admit we’re a bit at a loss for Zipp’s decision on this one. With the Ksyrium and Eurus you get hub quality on par with Record and Dura-Ace, and their aerodynamic benefits — while not Zipp-like — are certainly there to a moderate degree, with durability that few other wheel manufacturers can match. The market is saturated with excellent sub-$1000 wheelsets, and Zipp is getting into the game at the 11th hour. Given the unsatisfied market demand for a pro-quality carbon clincher, Zipp is clearly indicating that their R&D on this has been a frustrating process for them.
9. Mavic Cosmic Carbone Pro. It’s tubular-only, so don’t get too excited in light of our comments above about Zipp. But the subject of Zipp is indeed relevant here. What we’ve learned over time is that the Zipp 303 and 404 tubular are outstanding race day-only wheels. Their Achilles heel, though, has always been the impact-resistance of their rims. Slam into a railroad bed or manhole cover and the likelihood ain’t small that you’ll crack the rim. It’s for this very reason that we don’t believe the 303 or 404 tubular are ideal options for everyday use. Zipp introduced a superb solution to this problem in 2005 with the unveiling of the ‘Pave’ version of their wheels — each weighs approximately 40-50g more than the standard wheel, and you gain twice the impact resistance.
With the introduction of the Cosmic Carbone Pro, our sense is that Mavic has manufactured their own everyday carbon wheelset like the Zipp Pave. It has deep rim depth similar to the 404, and you can rest assured that the rim has stupendous impact-resistance. At sub-1500g it balances this all-important durability and outstanding aerodynamics with a good measure of lightness.
Why would you choose the Cosmic Carbone Pro over a set of Zipp Pave wheels? We can think of two reasons. One is the hub quality we mention above. Mavic hubs are widely known to have the near-frictionless feel and toughness of Record and Dura-Ace hubs. And we know from vast experience that Mavic prides themselves on the rugged construction of each component piece of their wheelsets. We feel sure that they’ll have zero susceptibility to impact damage in anything short of a crash situation. The only downside to them is price: In comparison to the $1600-$1700 price of a set of Zipps, they cost $2200.
8. BMC SLC 01 Pro Machine. Since its introduction at the Tour de France this year, we’ve gotten more email inquiring about the BMC Pro Machine than any other bike we sell. It’s an unbelievably gorgeous bike — in fact it’s probably the most artfully sculpted carbon bike we’ve ever seen. As many of you know, the whole bike is carbon — dropouts, headset cups, seat collar, everything (well, except the BB shell, which by necessity has to be alloy). BMC pulled this off by working with Easton to utilize their nanotechnology carbon manufacturing techniques. The carbon fiber itself is no different than what BMC used in the past, but rather the resin matrix is dramatically strengthened to make the Pro Machine what BMC calls ‘the safest, most durable carbon bike on the market.’ Given that it weighs a feathery 950g in size 55cm, that’s an impressive statement.
We’ve gotten some email inquiries about why some members of Team Phonak have still been seen riding SLT 01′s — might they prefer its ride quality in comparison to the Pro Machine? That’s a perfectly legitimate question, so I queried BMC on the topic during the show. Their answer was a good one: The team got pre-production bikes. In fact, they were allotted 4 and 4 only. They went to Floyd Landis, Alexander Moos, Oscar Pereiro, and Santiago Botero. If you saw video or a photo of any other team rider, they were on SLT 01′s because BMC hasn’t issued them their Pro Machine yet. You can rest assured, though, that every team member will be riding one come 2006.
7. SRM Compact Powermeter. SRM didn’t have a booth at the show, but Uli Schoberer (the inventor of the SRM and driving force behind the company) was there roaming the halls. We’d chatted on the phone the week beforehand and made a plan to get together in person at the show to review our year and to talk about upcoming innovation from SRM.
While some of our customers think the next big thing from SRM ought to be a wireless transmission, we have a much louder demand for a compact SRM, i.e. one with 50/34 chainrings. This would require the creation of a 110mm BCD crankset, and as of now SRM doesn’t make one. Some customers have questions whether they could modify an SRM mountain bike crankset (with its 110/74mm BCD chainrings) in order to create a compact combo for themselves, but SRM explicitly states that the shifting when you do this is a catastrophe.
Our customers are eagle-eyed, and they’ve noted how they’ve seen some instances of SRM’s being built into FSA carbon compact cranksets. Spy photos of this were prevalent during the 2005 Tour de France. Word on the street, though, is that FSA has shown little interest in collaborating with SRM on a production version — one that would give FSA monstrous great PR to a clientele more than happy to spend big bucks on their bikes. FSA has long had a reputation for corporate arrogance — both dealers and distributors have vocally expressed a strong dislike for their aloof, self-satisfied service — but we can’t believe that they’ve blown off such an important company.
In meeting with Uli, my plan was to advise him to speak with Truvativ. Outside of Shimano and Campy, they’re FSA’s biggest competitor, and they have plenty of good reasons to work with SRM on a project such as this. Truvativ is owned by SRAM, a company gobbling up huge mouthfuls of Shimano’s high-end market share on the mountain bike side of the business thanks to their outstanding X.0 gruppo. It’s no secret that SRAM is keen to enter into the road gruppo market, part of which will be their Truvativ cranksets. While the high-end road market has more or less embraced FSA alongside Campy and Shimano, Truvativ continues to be a tiny player. By collaborating with one of the most exciting boutique companies in the high-end road business, it would give Truvativ instant, enormous legitimacy that they currently lack.
SRM’s other option, of course, is to wait for Shimano to release their compact crankset in March 2006, and simply do the same machine work to it that they do on the 53/39 Dura-Ace crankset. It’s a darn good fallback position for them.
As eager as I was to discuss all of this with Uli, we never got together. I left him a phone message and never heard back, something I found quite strange given his previous responsiveness to my calls. It wasn’t until late on the final day of the show when I was killing 5 minutes before a meeting by checking my messages and otherwise playing with my cell phone that I stumbled across the fact that Uli had sent me 4 text messages. I was stunned — I’d never seen a text message before, and I didn’t know I could even get them. I thought texting was just for 15 year old girls with their ‘Hello Kitty’ phones. He’d tried 3 times to set up a meeting time, and the 4th message was letting me know he’d left town. I felt like a dork. What a missed opportunity! People, take a lesson from my mistake — learn how to check for text messages!
6. Eddy Merckx 2006. Fantastic news for those of you who’ve waited a year for the release of Eddy’s 25th Anniversary bike, the AXM Carbon: We have them in stock. As of now they’re available in Red/Carbon in 54 and 57. We’ve waited a year for these, and we’ve taken orders (and received subsequent cancellations due to interminable delays) on so many that we’ve lost count. But finally, finally, finally they’re here.
The other piece of interesting news is the introduction of the follow-up to the steel MX Leader — the Corsa Extra. Just as was the case with the MX Leader, only 100 will be made. Rather than being made from the Sherman Tank of steel tubesets, Columbus MXL, it’s made from the most classic of all steel, Columbus SLX. It’ll be lugged, it comes in even sizes only between 50-62, and it’ll have a steel fork with a semi-sloping fork crown. Best of all it has a Team 7-Eleven paint scheme. Given its $1599 price, we expect this to sell even more briskly than the MX Leader.
5. Assos Dopo Bici Clothing. No, this is not clothing for Raimondas Rumsas and Dario Frigo. ‘Dopo’ means ‘after’, which means this is clothing you w