Holiday Lead-Out Sale—Shop Our Deepest Discounts »
  • Free 2-Day Shipping on Orders Over $50
  • 100% Guaranteed Returns

Gear Review

1 5

Ride On (into a world where you are poor and shifting sucks)

These cables shift awesomely when new, but their trick is a slick plastic-y coating that lets them slide through the housing with minimal friction. Sounded great to me too, the catch is that the coating doesn't stay on the cables. The attached photo says it all, the cable on the left is off my bike, which uses a conventional external routing, the one on the right is off my buddy's BMC which routes internally. As you can see, the cable has gotten shredded at every contact point. Mine was pretty bad, especially at the BB cable guide, but on the BMC it was just awful. I had to fish bits of cable coating out of the shifters with tweezers. This is after about 1k miles on babied road bikes, mind you, not decades of cyclocross. And if you want to replace that inner cable? Too bad, Gore won't sell you one. Add to that a frustrating install because it is double-ended (SRAM users cut off the Campy end, and then curse and shout as the cable frays when they try to thread it through), and you have a pretty poor showing altogether.

I would not suggest this product to anyone paying for their own gear, and if you have a frame that routes cables internally, don't even think about it.

Ride On (into a world where you are poor and shifting sucks)
Responded on

Hey, thanks for the review. I tried some other brand of coated cables and had the same problem. I've been using Nokon brake cables for about three years with absolutely NO problems other than the usual wear on the REGULAR inner cable ($2 replacement cost). I highly recommend that brand.

Responded on

Well, jontu's photo shows that he's got a point. I've got two thoughts from my experience with gore cables. First, the main reason I use them is for creating a sealed system cable system, which I don't find necessary on road bikes (or even mountain bikes for that matter, as I'm based in Utah and our mud is only very rarely ridable) and especially not on a bike with internal cable routing. I only use the full system on cyclocross bikes where it saves me a lot of re-cableing and mid-race issues. Second, good cable cutters are a must. If the are dull or poorly made or if they are not designed for cutting cable you'll have the nightmare that jontu has described.